Friday, July 1, 2011

I'm a Spoiled Prince!


Out of boredom and unfounded vanity, I was looking over the columns I've had published in the Exeter News-Letter when I found this scathing reaction to my article concerning Alan Whicker and exiting from Kazakhstan:
"Congratulations on getting safely out of my country, you spoiled prince. In Kazakhstan, people always treat foreign guests worthy, even border security officers. That's what happened to you. Don't look down on them."
To avoid being too much of a dick, I'll just say claiming that foreign guests are always treated well in ANY country is just as foolish as saying they're always treated poorly. My critical friend here, as a citizen, probably doesn't actually know exactly how foreigners are treated in his country.

Example 1: Two foreign teachers I CouchSurfed with in Shymkent described in great detail how they are routinely stopped in their car, being forced to pay bribes to corrupt cops. This actually happens to everyone in Kazakhstan, not just foreigners, but most foreigners also have to have special plates that identify them. Hmm.

Example 2: Almost immediately after boarding a two day train, I was taken out of my berth and brought to the provodnik's compartment. First they asked me for cigarettes. Then they asked me for dollars. Then they asked me for tenge. Then they said straight up, "Baksheesh". I was smart enough to play dumb and quick enough to grab my passport back and leave. My passport, by the way, being the only foreign one on the train. Hmm. No other passengers had to suffer demands of bribery. Hmm.

Corruption and bribery is rampant in Kazakhstan. I know not so much because of these easily dismissible examples, but because every Kazakh person I met told me so.

In regard to my actual exit from the country: I was missing a vital stamp. Why the stamp is vital is a mystery to anyone, but nonetheless I was in a bind. The border guard would only have been doing his duty if he were to detain me, but thanks to a language barrier and a small confidence trick, I got out with no problems and without paying a bribe like a previous traveler in the same unfortunate position. It wasn't entirely legal, but it worked.

So, my insulted reader friend, thank you for your input. I agree that most Kazakhs are hospitable and genuinely kind people. But don't get all huffed up and insulted when someone brings up a little dirt; it's there whether you like it or not.

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